STRIKING OUT AGAINST THE NORM

Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Fashion designer Sarah Bruylant mixes conceptual with technical and colors with exaggerated shapes, adding a playful twist to fashion. She caught our eye at the 2016 Lectra AMFI Awards and we were elated get into the mind of this young designer!

Why did you decide to study fashion design?

I have always been attracted to fashion.  I think that it’s a beautiful way to communicate, show your ideas and make a statement. When I was younger I was sure that I would study law or art history at university, but when I finished high school I decided to give fashion a shot. That was 6 years ago and I’m still here.  

 

Why did you decide to go to AMFI to pursue your studies?

After high school I studied pattern-making in Belgium, then I interned with an Amsterdam-based designer. During my internship I learned about AMFI and was intrigued. I went to an open house and after learning more I felt that it was the perfect school for me. It’s the ideal match between creativity and commercial and I had a strong feeling that I would grow as a designer by attending.

 

12068835_1077248345632725_3454466178932484808_o.jpgOut of all your creations which one are you the most proud of and why?

My favorite look is from my summer 2015 collection, when I was enrolled in the honors program 3D HyperCraft. I really feel connected to this collection because it was a lot of hard work and the process really helped me to grow as a designer.

I love this look in particular because of the colors and the mood behind it. I painted the fabric with my hands using gouache and I worked on the proportion of the clothes in order to exaggerate them—the trousers are almost 1m50 long and the jacket is very short,  while the shoulder continues to up to the head and then there is the wig that is about 40cm long.

 

Where does your inspiration come from?

It comes from everywhere, but mostly from the people I see around me. People are fascinating and funny. I love to analyze them and at the end of the day I always find myself reflecting on all the people I’ve encountered throughout the day.  

 

Which designer(s) do you look up to?

To be honest, I prefer designers, and fashion in general, from the 80s and beginning of the 90s. I like the old Maison Margiela a lot and I usually keep an eye on Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and Demna Gvasalia. 

 

If you could have dinner with any three fashion designers (dead or alive), who would they be and why?

That’s not an easy question!

I would say Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela and Walter Van Beirendonck.  Rei Kawakubo because I really admire her and I bet it would be incredibly inspiring to meet and talk to her. Martin Margiela because he is my favorite designer of all time and I have thousands of questions to ask him. Walter Van Beirendonck because I respect his work and he seems super nice, I actually think I’d like to be his friend. J

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When were you introduced to Lectra’s Modaris 3D solution what was your first impression?

The first time I heard about Lectra was 5 years ago while I was studying pattern making in Belgium. Then I used it for the first time during my 2nd year at AMFI. Initially, everything was very blurry for me, it was not easy and it took me a few weeks to understand the way it works. Then I managed to simulate a very simple garment that I created and everything clicked, it made sense!

 

How has learning to use Lectra’s solutions been beneficial to you as a designer?  

I believe that I have improved my creativity because I’ve started to think and approach my designs differently. I am able to push my design way much further than I usually do. Since you are able to simulate your fabric in the program, you see how it will look like at the end and also try some unexpected combinations. Also, it helps me save time and work efficiently!

 

If you could describe Lectra’s technology in 3 words, what would they be?

  1. Limitless
  2. Visionary
  3. Challenging

 

Can you tell us a bit about your current internship?

I started a 5 month internship in February (2016) at Viktor&Rolf (the atelier).  I am very excited about it because the atelier is where everything happens, which means I am in the middle of it all!  I wanted to intern there because I love the fashion and art statements they made in their previous collection.  Also their work is usually very technical, which I also like a lot.

Now, we are working on the upcoming Haute Couture collection, which will be shown in Paris in July, and I can’t wait to see the final result. I still can’t believe that I am helping to create such an amazing collection!

 

Do you have any advice for fashion design students? 

Work harder and do more!

 

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